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I was interested in trying Voxeldance just because I heard it has very good auto-support generation routines. And (when the feature was still implemented) I was experimenting with wifi printing. And I got a free license for buying an Elegoo printer. Except the Elegoo license edition doesn't allow you to use those routines and is generally nerfed. They can eat my poo poo and hair twice.
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May 3, 2024 15:09
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bird food bathtub posted:Imagine talking to the self of, like, two years ago and saying, "Oh by the way you're going to be dropping $1,483 on an order. Nah it's no biggie, that's just the operating costs." Don't worry. Shipping is free!
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May 3, 2024 15:40
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I found this video I had seen about CA glue before: https://youtu.be/1hY1jyGNzIo
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May 3, 2024 15:40
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Deviant posted:I was interested in trying Voxeldance just because I heard it has very good auto-support generation routines. People used to say the same things about Simplify3D. queeb should try the current Simplify3D and tell us if it's worth it. It's only the cost of 10 spools of filament! 
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May 3, 2024 17:41
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Maybe a picture will help the more experienced folks understand what I tried to do and tell me what I did wrong. When I tried to print this, it made the support structure for the disc but then when it went to print the disc, that part stuck entirely to the tray and then the rest of the model just didn't print. I had to scrape the pedestal disc off of the film (gouging it, doh) and I don't know what I did wrong.
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May 3, 2024 17:52
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:Maybe a picture will help the more experienced folks understand what I tried to do and tell me what I did wrong. In that orientation the first layer of the disc will be a large, flat surface making complete contact to the FEP across the entire cross section for one layer at the same time. If you tilt the model itself a bit at an angle each individual layer's cross section will be drastically reduced, likely clearing up this specific failure. For future trouble shooting aid, the rest of the model most likely kinda sorta technically-correct-is-the-best-correct did print, it just ended up printing in the same spot over and over and over with every layer as the first failed layer that ripped off the supports stuck to the FEP. I call these "teleporter accident" failures, or puddles. I point this out as at some point in the future you will likely see exactly this, only to have it end up re-connecting with the rest of the print at some future layer and get pulled off the FEP. This is most common on arms so it ends up looking like you have flipper babies. So when that happens, this is what happened. There also appear to be some extra supports that are either not needed or will cause problems. The ones on the shield are probably not needed and it looks like there are some under the cloak on the shoulders. If I'm seeing those correctly they will end up fused to the model and unable to be removed. edit: Also for cleaning them off the plate, as you noticed, scraping stuff off the FEP is a bad idea. Don't do that. You can maaaaaaaybe some times get away with pushing up under the FEP from below and popping off really large puddles but this carries the risk of getting dirt or uncured resin on the underside so it's kind of an "advanced" technique. Best way to clean off print failures is to take an old piece of support or a failed print you have laying around and drop it in to one corner of the tank so it's sticking up while out of the way of your build plate, but still making contact with the FEP. There are cleaning modes or cleaning .stl's (depending on your printer model) that then blast the entire bottom of the tank at the same time with an rear end pile of UV and don't get the built plate involved. Run that cleaning cycle, then grab the handle you made out of support and just peel the entire layer off the bottom. Any failures stick to the cleaning layer and clear your tank for you. bird food bathtub fucked around with this message at 19:05 on May 3, 2024 |
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May 3, 2024 18:50
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DR FRASIER KRANG posted:Maybe a picture will help the more experienced folks understand what I tried to do and tell me what I did wrong. Tilt the entire thing about 10-degrees so the disc isn't flat on the build plate, regenerate supports and print.
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May 3, 2024 19:08
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Ok that's what I shall do. I dunno why I abandoned the tilt n support strategy I was using on the non-pedestal versions. I'm gonna make a gigantic army of changeling paladins at this rate.
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May 3, 2024 19:24
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Some Pinko Commie posted:People used to say the same things about Simplify3D. To be fair, at one point, S3D was way ahead of the game.
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May 3, 2024 19:53
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Yeah, in that layout, you might as well try printing it directly on the bed. The point of lift and support is to reduce that suction/adhesion to FEP force that can tear the model off the plate. You can hear this happen. You'll hear the normal "pop off the FEP" sound for the layers leading up to it, then one larger pop/tear sound, and then quiet for the rest of the layers. Tilting the platform ensures a smaller contact patch and the bunch of support holding it on ensures more force is adhering the model to the bed than the FEP.
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May 3, 2024 19:53
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ImplicitAssembler posted:To be fair, at one point, S3D was way ahead of the game. yeah in like 2014 when the "best" alternatives were KISSlicer and slic3r original. idk if you really have to hand it to them for that
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May 3, 2024 21:06
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Is there a specific source for thermal vat bands or a key word on Amazon I don't know? Tried looking for one and did not get anything useful for a Mono X.
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May 4, 2024 18:33
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every drat roll of overture i try to feed through my AMS ends up being such a pain in the rear end. idk why they can't unroll correctly and i dunno if i want to bother making a respooler to move the filament onto an empty bambu reel. annoying as hell
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May 4, 2024 19:58
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bird food bathtub posted:Is there a specific source for thermal vat bands or a key word on Amazon I don't know? Tried looking for one and did not get anything useful for a Mono X. Did you mean the actual ThermalVATBRAND brand vat heaters? Or the DIY solution people use like this (as seen on my Saturn 3)?:  If it's the DIY route, people are just repurposing fermentation heating belts and plugging them in to temperature controllers, and then print out a lid spacer to give room for the cables to pass through without having to notch the lid (you could design one, or just see if someone's already done the work for you and uploaded it somewhere). here's what I'm using: belt: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D6IUB6 thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC
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May 4, 2024 20:12
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Probably looking at one of the pre-made ones. I don't have a filament printer to print the spacer and ideally the vat band would just not put out enough heat to require a thermometer cut off. The house is juuuuuuuust slightly colder than is good for printing because the wife whines about livable temperatures.
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May 4, 2024 22:00
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Does anyone have one of those thin-walled 'tent' style enclosures? I'm looking for something I can put my P1S inside and then put a 4" vent hose on to vent outside using an external duct fan I have. I guess it has to be large enough inside to crack the front door open when printing PLA as well. I've seen some like this, the sort of clear plastic and self-supporting but not exactly rigid enclosures. But I'm totally at a loss what the term for it would be to try to search. vv Thanks for the link. I have no idea why I kept only finding rigid enclosures when searching. Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 5, 2024 |
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May 5, 2024 14:23
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Rescue Toaster posted:Does anyone have one of those thin-walled 'tent' style enclosures? I'm looking for something I can put my P1S inside and then put a 4" vent hose on to vent outside using an external duct fan I have. I guess it has to be large enough inside to crack the front door open when printing PLA as well. search for "3d printer enclosure" like https://www.creality3dofficial.com/en/products/3d-printer-enclosure-safe-quick-and-easy-installation or if you need something bigger look for "grow tents" for plants hope this helps
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May 5, 2024 15:14
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:Did you mean the actual ThermalVATBRAND brand vat heaters? How low of ambient temps can you reliably go with a setup like this? Part of my avoidance of resin printing thus far has been because I would have to run it in the garage. (I have no good place to put one inside where I could vent it.) Being an unconditioned space, it gets pretty cold in there for half the year.
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May 5, 2024 16:38
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fwiw, I'm running mine in a shed that sits at 60-67F with a small heater. I don't like using the heater for safety reasons so I'm building an insulated prism for the printer to wear like a hat. Might also get a seed heating mat for it.
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May 5, 2024 16:51
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Rescue Toaster posted:Does anyone have one of those thin-walled 'tent' style enclosures? I'm looking for something I can put my P1S inside and then put a 4" vent hose on to vent outside using an external duct fan I have. I guess it has to be large enough inside to crack the front door open when printing PLA as well. I've got a grow tent on its side. I bought a big silicone mat (with a lip around it) on Amazon that covers pretty much the entire bottom to manage resin spills. My plan is to turn it right way up when I need it to do double duty for my CR-10 when I'm printing ABS or ASA. Honestly, the CR-10 will probably get more of a workout, but I need to either recongfigure my shelving to accommodate it, or clear off a space on my desk. I still haven't actually *used* it yet because I cannot get the stupid slicer software to spit out something that my Voxelab Proxima 6.0 will recognize  DR FRASIER KRANG posted:fwiw, I'm running mine in a shed that sits at 60-67F with a small heater. It's pretty cheap to add an Inkbird temperature controller (they're popular in the home brewing community) which will toggle your heat source on and off to try and maintain a steady temp. I've heated a fermentation chamber in the past with a 7m reptile heater cord that I wrapped around the whole thing.
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May 5, 2024 17:29
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I had a couple of strange fails on my Mars 3 Pro. It looks like after a certain height, prints stuck to the FEP. Everything below that was fine and remained on the plate, but 2 of the taller models were cut neatly across at the same height. I thought first maybe I had let the run out of resin, but it still had some left. Then, when cleaning I found the rest of the layers for those 2 models stuck to the FEP. Wish I'd taken a pic, but anyone know what might have happened from that vague description?
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May 5, 2024 19:17
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when you say 'some left' how little was there? so little remaining that its possibly squished an air bubble instead of resin into the print area? Without sufficient resin, it just wont be able to flood the area fast enough to get more resin into position before the next layer starts being cured.
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May 6, 2024 05:16
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Context, I work for a helicopter company that also runs a dedicated medivac helicopter under a charitable foundation. Every year they have a big fundraiser and this year it was based on MASH. My boss asked me if I had any ideas of how to make a Bell47/H-13 table piece (Knowing that I had a printer and also trained on a Bell47) and I went "Sure!". Initial idea was to just use a small plastic bulb for canopy, but I figured it would look better if it was translucent rather than transparent, so I printed a couple of tests.  I had a hard time getting the translucency uniform, so I did a couple of resin tests that were much better. Meanwhile, I tried to get a Bell47 tailboom to print with FDM, but I could not find the right combination of thickness and supports and it was a pain to clean up. Using a dedicated support material was out of the question, as I needed to make 50 of these, so that would be too slow. (This later to got reduced to 35, but still) I ended up remodelling the whole thing multiple times, trying to simplify it, but nothing looked right. I then also tried resin printing that, which worked pretty well, except for the scale needed, I had to print it in two parts....but at least I had a basic concept now.  I knew one of my other colleagues had a Elogoo Jupiter, so talked him into helping out with the tailbooms and eventually rotorheads, while I was churning out all the other parts on my X1C First assembly:  ....and then work got real busy and I only got a little done for the next 2 weeks and suddenly the deadline was looming. Another colleague has a P1S, but fairly new to printing and was having a hard time with some of the supported prints, but eventually got him to print the simpler stuff. With 4 days to go, I was pretty much only doing print management and assembly but it was starting to come together.   Base was designed so that it would hold a small LED light and sit on top of that. One of my last prints was all 35 top mounts for that. If that had failed, I would totally have missed my deadline, but my X1C was pretty much flawless during all of this.  Last part was assembled 3 hours before the fundraiser...nothing like making deadlines the last minute, but everyone was stoked about the end result  Not sure I'll volunteer for this again, though!!!
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May 6, 2024 08:09
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That’s a super awesome project. What a great result!
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May 6, 2024 12:17
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armorer posted:How low of ambient temps can you reliably go with a setup like this? Part of my avoidance of resin printing thus far has been because I would have to run it in the garage. (I have no good place to put one inside where I could vent it.) Being an unconditioned space, it gets pretty cold in there for half the year. People who do the same say they run it in temps that are pretty low. My printer is also in the garage (because it's the only place I can put it and give it proper ventilation) and I've run prints in there when it's below 50f overnight with no problems at all. Since the belt is heating up the vat directly (vs trying to use a heater to warm up the immediate space), it's not too hard for it to get to and keep temp. With the lid on, and an additional cover on top of that (I use a USPS box that happens to fit perfectly), that goes a long way towards keeping the heat in. When I'm preheating (I usually get it going about an hour before I intend to print just because I know I'll get distracted and forget to do it otherwise), I also lower the plate down to make contact with the resin so it gets warmed up as well.
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May 6, 2024 12:27
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My friend got an A1 mini and it’s pretty cool, so I started looking at getting one. My use case starting out would mostly be to print board game stuff. Box inserts, upgraded components to cardboard tokens, etc. But now I’m stuck on Bambulab’s pricing ladder trap. Hey the Mini is cool and affordable, but hey, my friend did say it’s a little small sometimes, so why not spend the extra $150 for an A1, but if I’m spending that why not spend a little more and get a P1P, but if I want the AMS for that why not…
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May 6, 2024 16:09
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I think the a1 is a great price point if you're just doing PLA. has the AMS option, its still fast as hell, ill probably continue to build my farm with A1's
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May 6, 2024 16:12
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:People who do the same say they run it in temps that are pretty low. My printer is also in the garage (because it's the only place I can put it and give it proper ventilation) and I've run prints in there when it's below 50f overnight with no problems at all. So do you vent the garage as well then? My garage opens basically to the street and doesn't have any windows that open, so it would be tough for me to vent properly. I guess I could make like a 1" vent and close the garage door onto it or something...
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May 6, 2024 16:13
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I'm having a hell of a time printing ASA on my X1C. Fans are off, the bed is heated to 95 degrees, I've tried all the plates I have, and part corners still violently warp and dislodge themselves within about 10 layers. Is the solution just going slower?
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May 6, 2024 16:42
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Elysium posted:My friend got an A1 mini and it’s pretty cool, so I started looking at getting one. My use case starting out would mostly be to print board game stuff. Box inserts, upgraded components to cardboard tokens, etc. But now I’m stuck on Bambulab’s pricing ladder trap. Hey the Mini is cool and affordable, but hey, my friend did say it’s a little small sometimes, so why not spend the extra $150 for an A1, but if I’m spending that why not spend a little more and get a P1P, but if I want the AMS for that why not… But it's also pretty easy to break out of if you look at your actual wants/needs. For the sake of ease, just forget that the X1 even exists unless you know you need one and really want to spend $1500 on a 3D printer. Also maybe forget that the P1P exists for now. Do you think you'll ever want to print more 'exotic' stuff that would require an enclosure? Grab a P1S. Do you just want to make nice prints with mostly PLA and PETG? Get an A1. It'll do everything a P1P will do, only marginally slower and with the (potentially notable) exception of not supporting multiple AMS units. One AMS Lite, four colors, is the limit for both the A1 & the Mini. I have two P1Ps that I bought before the P1S was released, one P1S, and an A1. They're all pretty comparable performance-wise at the end of the day. You certainly can't tell which printer any given object came off. If I decide to buy a fifth machine it'll probably be another A1.
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May 6, 2024 16:46
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queeb posted:I think the a1 is a great price point if you're just doing PLA. has the AMS option, its still fast as hell, ill probably continue to build my farm with A1's how do you find a1's vs p1s for density? I specifically earmarked a 9 printer rack for my basement, and the p1's being core-xy and enclosed definitely seems like the route to go for my needs at least. I guess this is a scale issue more than anything. If Space isn't a concern, a1's seem to come out ahead for sure. The Chairman posted:I'm having a hell of a time printing ASA on my X1C. Fans are off, the bed is heated to 95 degrees, I've tried all the plates I have, and part corners still violently warp and dislodge themselves within about 10 layers. glue and brims. that seems to do the trick 99% of the time on my end (enclosed p1p, basically the same machine)
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May 6, 2024 16:49
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Help I can't stop printing little dudes.  I want to print a replacement AR cartridge for my Saturn and have it match the blue buttons on the top of the unit. Are there any reliable methods for color matching an existing piece of plastic? This is RE: liquid resin.
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May 6, 2024 17:58
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The Chairman posted:I'm having a hell of a time printing ASA on my X1C. Fans are off, the bed is heated to 95 degrees, I've tried all the plates I have, and part corners still violently warp and dislodge themselves within about 10 layers. On my Voron I do polymaker ASA at 110 bed and 255 hotend with fans on at 25%, chamber is approx at 50-55 degrees. I recently installed a ptc heater and can get the chamber to 80 but haven't bothered to tune it (I need to redo temp tower and cooling tower). E to add: print at 25 mm^3 max volumetric speed with a 0.5 nozzle.
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May 6, 2024 18:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Last part was assembled 3 hours before the fundraiser...nothing like making deadlines the last minute, but everyone was stoked about the end result That looks great! I hear you on supports or whatever being a non-starter because of the number that need to be done and the time to do it. Nothing like making 10+ of something to really highlight every little gotcha, hah.
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May 6, 2024 18:45
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If you are trying to make big ASA prints you may want to pump the bed temperature higher as at least to me it seems that the edges of the X1C bed are a bit cooler. Otherwise clean bed, brim, glue help. No cooling. PEI and engineering plates work well. I’ve wrapped the printer in blankets and preheated it before starting to get ~60 C chamber temperatures. I still get cracks in the trailing edges of airfoils as the thin tip cools too fast. I don’t see how a bigger than 250x250x250 printer could work in practice for ASA and nylons without a heated chamber if the whole volume is to be used. DoLittle fucked around with this message at 19:02 on May 6, 2024 |
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May 6, 2024 18:57
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DoLittle posted:I still get cracks in the trailing edges of airfoils as the thin tip cools too fast. I don’t see how a bigger than 250x250x250 printer could work in practice for ASA and nylons without a heated chamber if the whole volume is to be used. My voron has printed 330mm wide ASA parts without a heated chamber but with some chamber circulation via filter (same can be achieved on a Bambu with the part cooling fan probably). I just made sure to preheat the chamber for at least 30 minutes. With active heating the pre heat time is significantly shorter. Once I doomify the chamber I should be able to easily hit 85-90°C on my chamber which is mostly metal and some polycarbonate (ezPC which will be replaced with real PC once I get it dialed in). I have spares for every ezPC part just in case I goof the chamber temps, but right now cheap PC (which is to say low temperature PC) prints really well.
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May 6, 2024 19:21
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I'll definitely try preheating it then. The chamber temps are usually only around 35 by the time it fails.
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May 6, 2024 19:41
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Yeah I print ASA bit hotter than default, towards the top of the safe range, and heat the bed to max temp for a good half hour to an hour before starting the print if it’s cold.
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May 6, 2024 20:28
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deimos posted:My voron has printed 330mm wide ASA parts without a heated chamber but with some chamber circulation via filter (same can be achieved on a Bambu with the part cooling fan probably). I just made sure to preheat the chamber for at least 30 minutes. With active heating the pre heat time is significantly shorter. Once I doomify the chamber I should be able to easily hit 85-90°C on my chamber which is mostly metal and some polycarbonate (ezPC which will be replaced with real PC once I get it dialed in). I have spares for every ezPC part just in case I goof the chamber temps, but right now cheap PC (which is to say low temperature PC) prints really well. I’ve used the Bambu auxilary fan to circulate the air during the preheating but I’ve turned it off for the print. Perhaps I should try leaving it on, but some circulation fan that doesn’t blow into the top layer would be much better. It would be easy and safe to add such a fan somewhere near the bottom. I think I will try that.
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May 6, 2024 20:45
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DoLittle posted:I’ve used the Bambu auxilary fan to circulate the air during the preheating but I’ve turned it off for the print. Perhaps I should try leaving it on, but some circulation fan that doesn’t blow into the top layer would be much better. It would be easy and safe to add such a fan somewhere near the bottom. I think I will try that. ASA is fine to have fans on if the chamber is around 40-50°C at a moderate airflow. As always... Needs to be tuned per filament. Cooling too little causes curling, cooling too much... Causes curling.
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May 6, 2024 21:37
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