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Looks like a basic hacksaw would probably do the job. Clamp it to something solid and put painters/masking tape around the area you are going to saw through. I would suggest wrapping the plastic bar with a towel so there's less chance of cracking the bar when you clamp. It might make things a little slippery, so it could be a bit of a balancing act.
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May 17, 2024 14:55
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CzarChasm posted:Looks like a basic hacksaw would probably do the job. Clamp it to something solid and put painters/masking tape around the area you are going to saw through. I would suggest wrapping the plastic bar with a towel so there's less chance of cracking the bar when you clamp. It might make things a little slippery, so it could be a bit of a balancing act. Yeah, I think I used a hacksaw or a crosscut hand saw, it was probably 15 years ago and the replacement has held up so I don't recall all of the details. I don't think it was very difficult, I was mostly annoyed that I cut it a little short so the end rests on the spring out plastic bar piece and hangs 1/8" low. Not really a big deal at all and you can't really notice it unless you're looking for it, but I felt silly. Still, it's held up fine for towels and whatnot since then.
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May 17, 2024 15:25
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The Dave posted:Your pre-hung door is only going to care about the size of your rough opening it is going into, since it is, well, pre-hung. How does it work when you already have an old door in-place? Do I need to rip everything off and measure the actual opening?
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May 17, 2024 17:06
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:How does it work when you already have an old door in-place? Do I need to rip everything off and measure the actual opening? If your intention is to buy a pre-hung door (and I strongly suggest this) you will need to pull the trim off of one side so you can measure the rough opening. Do it in several places both height and width and use the smallest of your measurements in each dimension as your maximum rough opening size when choosing a new pre-hung.
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May 17, 2024 17:11
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:How does it work when you already have an old door in-place? Do I need to rip everything off and measure the actual opening? Do what motronic recommends. Our staff typically orders replacement prehung doors without removing trim, but that's because they've installed hundreds of doors and can estimate the rough opening size based on the interior jamb measurement. We do the same for windows, no trim removal. When you're inexperienced, removing the trim is a much safer approach to measurement and you'll have to remove the trim anyways to install the prehung door so might as well get on with it.
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May 17, 2024 17:24
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I have a wood question! My front porch was painted last year, and this spring we were very upset to notice that the paint (the proper porch floor kind, Sherwin Williams) was bubbling in many spots.  We brought the painter back in, and when removing the area where it was bubbling, very quickly deduced that all the bubbles had knots underneath them  The Sherwin Williams rep recommended sanding those spots down to the bare wood, then applying the paint (no primer). If that doesn't hold, they'll come back and redo with a primer, but SW says a primer shouldn't be necessary for that paint. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about the knots though? They're clearly off-gassing or releasing some kind of moisture. The porch is of unknown age, but the last paint job didn't have this issue, it was just scratched up which is why we wanted a fresh coating. The painter isn't sure if it's because the wood is getting older that it's off gassing, or if it's collecting moisture in winter that it's releasing now in summer? Is there any other treatment we could try here? Because I'm skeptical about the "repaint it and hope it doesn't do that again" strategy we're doing right now.
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May 17, 2024 22:49
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Tezer posted:When you're inexperienced, removing the trim is a much safer approach to measurement and you'll have to remove the trim anyways to install the prehung door so might as well get on with it. We had some misgivings about popping the trim because the doors we want (yes, prehung) were something like 8 weeks out. So it's more like we have to very gently pop it out so we can pop it back in unless we're fine with slummin' it.
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May 17, 2024 22:54
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Yeah, fair. And thanks, Motronic. You want to do that anyway to see if you can save it. If it's caulked or painted down start with a very sharp new razor blade in a good knife/handle and cut the trim free from the wall first, then start going in with an appropriate small prybar like the flat end of a cats paw. You just may be able to pop it off clean, pull nails, and tack it back up with just a couple of nails until your door arrives.
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May 17, 2024 22:57
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NZAmoeba posted:I have a wood question! If they are really a problem, drill them out and glue a dowel into the hole. Sand it flush and problem solved.
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May 17, 2024 23:00
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Wouldn't texture for steps be a good thing?
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May 17, 2024 23:27
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If I'm working with some dusty quikrete, do I need a full respirator or would just a n95 mask be enough?
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May 18, 2024 00:06
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Deteriorata posted:If they are really a problem, drill them out and glue a dowel into the hole. Sand it flush and problem solved. I woulda said seal it with shellac, but replacing the knotwood with a dowel is on another level
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May 18, 2024 01:07
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Beef Eater posted:If I'm working with some dusty quikrete, do I need a full respirator or would just a n95 mask be enough? I've never had issues with an N95. Inside of the mask and my face that it's covering is clean still, so that tells me it's probalby just fine.
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May 18, 2024 01:14
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Beef Eater posted:If I'm working with some dusty quikrete, do I need a full respirator or would just a n95 mask be enough? An n95 is enough for the particle hazard from concrete dust, according to OSHA guidelines.
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May 18, 2024 02:40
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How DIYey would it be to rip out an old 80’s built-in from a closet without destroying the wall behind it? Attempt or leave to a professional?
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May 18, 2024 05:23
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Motronic posted:You want to do that anyway to see if you can save it. My wife is at the house where we want to do this work and has been really testing about just popping off the trim and testing it (despite doing some similarly manual and destructive work), so I'll be happy to follow up in the thread in mid-August when the first doors turn out to be wrong and we have to wait another eight weeks for the second ones to show up.
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May 18, 2024 06:12
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PRADA SLUT posted:How DIYey would it be to rip out an old 80’s built-in from a closet without destroying the wall behind it? Pictures would go a long way here I think.
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May 18, 2024 12:15
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Is there any particular reason to want to save the trim or anything? The current doors have something like a two-inch gap at the bottom and let everything through. I think people get a good earful of the bathroom shenanigans but I haven't been able to check myself. I was assuming the trim was something you would want to keep if possible. If it's not then go caveman ripping it off. If things are salveageable I tend to salvage them. Trim from decades ago is much nicer than the garbage millwork you're going to have available at loewsdepot today. And they price it as if it isn't just knotty pine with finger joints ever 2 to 5 feet (this is why it's all pre-primed: it's far too lovely to ever pass muster stained).
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May 18, 2024 14:48
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The mechanism that causes our front door knob to spring back is broken. The exterior is a handle set with a thumb press, and the interior is a standard doorknob. There’s no lock, just a separate deadbolt. I want to keep the hardware and replace the internals (it’s been finicky since we moved in). Is there some search term that will get me to suitable replacements (and YouTube videos)?
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May 18, 2024 15:34
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EPICAC posted:The mechanism that causes our front door knob to spring back is broken. The exterior is a handle set with a thumb press, and the interior is a standard doorknob. There’s no lock, just a separate deadbolt. Brand matters. You are unlikely to find this for anything other than very high end brands, and those parts may only be avilable to dealers. I don't think you'll find anything kitted as a "rebuild kit" so you're ordering loose parts. Or a new handle and gutting it.
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May 18, 2024 15:38
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PRADA SLUT posted:How DIYey would it be to rip out an old 80’s built-in from a closet without destroying the wall behind it? Questions like these lead me to believe that, deep down you know that it'll take a lot longer to demo the built-in while trying to save the drywall than it would to shell the closet & start over - not least because of the damage to the drywall you'll have anyway from trying to surgically remove it. But post some pictures. Motronic posted:I was assuming the trim was something you would want to keep if possible. If it's not then go caveman ripping it off. Seconding: you also know that it already fits. Wield a boxcutter, take a few minutes with care to separate it, & save it
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May 18, 2024 17:23
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Motronic posted:Brand matters. You are unlikely to find this for anything other than very high end brands, and those parts may only be avilable to dealers. I don't think you'll find anything kitted as a "rebuild kit" so you're ordering loose parts. Or a new handle and gutting it. Seconding the parts are proprietary. You'd have to order a new one to gut, but if you're getting an entire new handle set, why not just replace it?
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May 18, 2024 17:55
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And on the millwork just ot be clear: non-garbage millwork is absolutely available. But when you find out that something comparable to the stuff you have now (even if it's just fairly basic) costs like $8-10 per foot you may start thinking about it differently.
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May 18, 2024 18:03
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kid sinister posted:Seconding the parts are proprietary. You'd have to order a new one to gut, but if you're getting an entire new handle set, why not just replace it? If I could find an exact match I would replace. The outside handle set is 1) stylistically matched to the doorknobs throughout the house, 2) stylistically matched to the deadbolt hardware which works fine and I don’t want to mess with, and 3) is identical to the hardware on front door to the other condo unit (doors are right next to each other). There’s no HOA regulation issue, since the HOA is just us and the other owner who doesn’t care. 4) I like the current style better than almost everything else I see. I know it’s all pretty trivial, but that kind of thing is not something I would stop noticing. It would just annoy me every time I see it. If I could figure out the brand I would gut and replace, but I’m really not sure how well that would work given these date to 2007.
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May 18, 2024 18:24
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EPICAC posted:If I could find an exact match I would replace. The outside handle set is 1) stylistically matched to the doorknobs throughout the house, 2) stylistically matched to the deadbolt hardware which works fine and I don’t want to mess with, and 3) is identical to the hardware on front door to the other condo unit (doors are right next to each other). There’s no HOA regulation issue, since the HOA is just us and the other owner who doesn’t care. 4) I like the current style better than almost everything else I see. I figured it was a situation like this, and that's why I suggested buying another and gutting it. There are a lot of finishes/styles that may no longer be avilable but things available today use the same mechanisms. You probably need to take it off the door to find brand/model markings. A good start is the key (who's style is it?).
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May 18, 2024 18:29
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EPICAC posted:If I could find an exact match I would replace. The outside handle set is 1) stylistically matched to the doorknobs throughout the house, 2) stylistically matched to the deadbolt hardware which works fine and I don’t want to mess with, and 3) is identical to the hardware on front door to the other condo unit (doors are right next to each other). There’s no HOA regulation issue, since the HOA is just us and the other owner who doesn’t care. 4) I like the current style better than almost everything else I see. Are you sure its the spring that's broken? A little graphite lubricant works wonders on my doorknob when it gets sticky. Can you post pics? Especially of it slightly disassembled? There's a good chance the external hardware that you like might fit (or can be made to fit) on new internals. This is also where calling a locksmith in can be very helpful because they might say 'oh yeah that's a Baldwin XY series and I still have a bunch of parts/there's a drop in replacement/that hardware will fit on these brands' etc etc.
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May 18, 2024 18:31
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It’s a Schlage key, so I guess probably the same for hardware. I’ll take a look inside later
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May 18, 2024 18:42
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EPICAC posted:It’s a Schlage key, so I guess probably the same for hardware. I’ll take a look inside later There's no maker's mark anywhere? Look on the plate around the latch on the door.
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May 18, 2024 18:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you sure its the spring that's broken? A little graphite lubricant works wonders on my doorknob when it gets sticky. Can you post pics? Especially of it slightly disassembled? There's a good chance the external hardware that you like might fit (or can be made to fit) on new internals. It’s not that it’s sticky, it’s very loose and doesn’t spring back at all after turning. It may be something else with the mechanism linking the knob to the spring, which looked intact when I was poking around. This all happened when my daughter had a meltdown from FOMO after my wife and son went out somewhere, and she put all of her weight into pulling on the knob. I like the locksmith suggestion. May be worth my time to pay for some expertise.
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May 18, 2024 18:59
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Nothing as obvious as the markings I’ve seen on other hardware. I’ll take a closer look later when I’m home.
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May 18, 2024 19:01
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My wife pulled off the trim on one side of one of the doors. The rough opening was about 34 inches; the minimum of it was 33.75 inches. The door slab was 31.75 inches for the same doorway. What's going to happen with the extra quarter of an inch? Is this a nominal vs actual thing? This is a 1961 house with doors having the same style all around. I'm _hoping_ then that we can extrapolate from this one what to do with the others. Are we really going to have to go through this for everything? Like, for 100% confidence, I suppose, but have we established 95% confidence that the rough opening should be 2 inches from the slab for each door now? A lot of the fuss is that my wife is kind of trapped over at this house with just a fraction of tools. Popping off the trim is adding a lot more time and work in just getting some more stuff to take it off and put it back on. Also, she's trying to keep the "haunted house index" down of having half ripped-out poo poo while she's in there. She's pretty fired up against having to rip trim off all of them, and I'm currently over a thousand miles away so I can't mess around with it myself.
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May 18, 2024 20:00
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:My wife pulled off the trim on one side of one of the doors. The rough opening was about 34 inches; the minimum of it was 33.75 inches. The door slab was 31.75 inches for the same doorway. What's going to happen with the extra quarter of an inch? Is this a nominal vs actual thing? This is a 1961 house with doors having the same style all around. I'm _hoping_ then that we can extrapolate from this one what to do with the others. Are we really going to have to go through this for everything? Like, for 100% confidence, I suppose, but have we established 95% confidence that the rough opening should be 2 inches from the slab for each door now? There are many ways to guesstimate/measure what door will fit, and most methods will get you there successfully. You can measure the door slab and add two inches, you can measure the door jamb/frame (the reason you removed the trim was to access this) and add one inch, or you can measure the rough opening and ask the lumberyard for a door that fits that rough opening. What is important is that you are very consistent in your communication with all parties. If you measure the door slab at 31-3/4 inches and then tell the lumberyard 'I need a prehung door that fits a 31-3/4 wide opening' you are going to get a prehung door that is too small and floats in the opening. If you measure the rough opening at 33-3/4 and then tell the lumberyard 'I need a door that is 33-3/4 wide' you are going to get a prehung door that is too large and does not fit. The lumberyard will likely correct you (who orders a door slab 33-3/4 wide?), but if they don't you are in trouble. I recommend the method that requires no math. The trim is removed and you have measured the rough opening. Ask the lumberyard for a 'prehung door that fits a 33.75 rough opening'. They should quote you a door that has a frame size of 33 or 32 inches. This way you don't need to mess around with any math. Is the frame size of the door you are ordering smaller than your rough opening measurement? Then you are good. To change measurements for a moment: if all of your interior doors have the same door slab width (31-3/4 on the one your wife measured), you can assume they all have the same frame size and you do not need to remove the trim on the other doors. However, you may want to remove the trim anyways in order to discover any 'weird carpentry' that may be on display that will mess up your work since you are less experienced. For example, lets say you have a new prehung door to install with a frame width of 32 inches. The original house framer messed up and one of the openings got framed at 32-inches wide instead of 33 inches, so the new prehung door will just barely fit... except that the rough frame isn't square and is actually 31-7/8 wide at the bottom. In order to install the existing door the original carpenter planed down part of the door jamb by 1/8 to fit. Are you comfortable making those in the moment modifications? If not, take all the trim off to see what you are working with.
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May 18, 2024 20:25
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Tezer posted:To change measurements for a moment: if all of your interior doors have the same door slab width (31-3/4 on the one your wife measured), you can assume they all have the same frame size and you do not need to remove the trim on the other doors. However, you may want to remove the trim anyways in order to discover any 'weird carpentry' that may be on display that will mess up your work since you are less experienced. For example, lets say you have a new prehung door to install with a frame width of 32 inches. The original house framer messed up and one of the openings got framed at 32-inches wide instead of 33 inches, so the new prehung door will just barely fit... except that the rough frame isn't square and is actually 31-7/8 wide at the bottom. In order to install the existing door the original carpenter planed down part of the door jamb by 1/8 to fit. Are you comfortable making those in the moment modifications? If not, take all the trim off to see what you are working with. This is so important, and why I came out of the gate with "pull the trim and measure for real". We don't know your capabilities and what tools you have, but I can make some pretty accurate assumptions based on your having to ask the question. So I'm sticking with the advice with the highest likelihood of success, especially in a time when getting something like this wrong could end up with 6+ week delays for a reorder.
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May 18, 2024 20:58
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:This is a 1961 house with doors having the same style all around. I'm _hoping_ then that we can extrapolate from this one what to do with the others. Now this is slab size, not frame or rough, but I recently replaced all the interior doors in my house. I gave them away, and to do so measured them all. There are 5 different sizes in there and I re-measured the height on #7 4 times because that quarter inch was hurting my head. Outside of the double doors they all visually were of similar style and vintage. 1976 built tract home. #1: 27 3/4 x 79 #2: 27 7/8 x 79 #3: 27 3/4 x 79 (Double Door Left) #4: 27 7/8 x 79 (Double Door Right) #5: 29 5/8 x 79 #6: 29 7/8 x 79 #7: 29 5/8 x 79 1/4 (lol)
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May 18, 2024 21:12
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What was the significance of that level of precision with the different door widths you had? Are you able to order doors with 1/8" differences? The stuff we're looking at just goes in 2-inch steps. I'm assuming we're going to have to do something with each door to adjust them regardless. What may be relevant is we don't have much tools and stuff there ourselves, but it's in the area with our brother-in-law who has a table saw, router, and whatever planing stuff we'd ever want (he does recreational woodworking). What's probably the worse problem here for gauging any kind of skill I have in this is my wife was looking for a sanity check and wanted me to ask about this, but I haven't done any research into myself (and got yelled at a bit when I started), so I've been something of a traffic cop on the whole thing. I think the most fundamental kind of question to ask is: Suppose I have a door slab that 31.75". The closest pre-hung door I can order has a door slab size of 32". Is there any reason to think I might have to order a 30" instead? My apologies for how goofy this is but I'm getting it from both sides here. It's a real fun one.
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May 18, 2024 23:17
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:What was the significance of that level of precision with the different door widths you had? Are you able to order doors with 1/8" differences? The stuff we're looking at just goes in 2-inch steps. I'm assuming we're going to have to do something with each door to adjust them regardless. I don't know precisely, but you're working with a bunch of tolerances. I just measured to the nearest 1/8" because I didn't want to have to remeasure and it was just as easy to do 1/8" as 1/4". Any gap you (want to) take up with either trim, frame, or weather stripping. (Or some combination depending on where it is.) These slabs have to fit inside a frame. That frame might be just as bespoke as anything else due to the intensity of the hangover or speed at which the carpenter can adjust for mis-measurements. See the example above where "lol the bottom is 1/2 inch narrower than the top" - a carpenter who does framing work all day every day can very quickly rip that half inch off the door with a blend to not gap at the top, the painter comes by a month later and paints it, no one is any the wiser. And no one needs to be, the door functions well. Pre-hung takes all the guesswork out of it beyond ensuring the frame fits inside the rough opening. The other thing pre-hung helps with assuming you have the patience to operate a level is the smoothness of the door. A pre-hung is going to come balanced - it won't swing open or closed on its own. This is a subtle thing in the operation of doors that can really make them feel "nice." It's hard to get exactly right when you're doing the hinges yourself.
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May 18, 2024 23:33
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:What was the significance of that level of precision with the different door widths you had? Are you able to order doors with 1/8" differences? The stuff we're looking at just goes in 2-inch steps. I'm assuming we're going to have to do something with each door to adjust them regardless. Ask the brother-in-law to come over and help? One of my in-laws is a loser who I wouldn’t piss on to put out a fire, but I’d happily bring my bucket of tools to the other one’s place to measure and, if possible, replace the trim to “good-enough.”
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May 19, 2024 02:19
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