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It works as long as I hold it up and down, just tends to get stuck automatically. So it’s pretty minor in the end. Don’t feel like getting that drat thing off again either. I half expect the loving panel to fall off mid-trip now that I messed with it despite doing everything as written 
Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Apr 29, 2024 |
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Apr 29, 2024 23:44
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There's usually a way to recalibrate the auto up / down
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Apr 30, 2024 00:33
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If that 'clicking' noise I hear is inside the door & not some unrelated external thing, then the drive gear is stripping, and you'll need to replace the regulator assembly. Not sure how it flies with newer models, but we learned the hard way with my son's '01 Accord 2-door that you have to spend the $$ to get a really good one because the cheap ones strip out after about 6-months. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 30, 2024 02:53
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Yeah, it’s an internal noise as far as I can tell. Something like this? https://youtu.be/PxiFreFzS0Y?si=7C0C3KNJRDIt5OXF Groannnnnnnnnnn. Maybe I enjoy watching videos more than actually working on cars… 
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Apr 30, 2024 03:18
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Spend the money, and suffer through it once. Because it will fail. On a lovely, cold, wet, day. And you will be sad.
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Apr 30, 2024 06:03
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I have a 2016 base Kia Soul with about 52k miles on it. I keep the car maintained, in theory the engine should last another 50k to 150k miles. I figure that gives me 5 to 10 more years. Would there be any good reason to engine swap it after the current engine quits?
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Apr 30, 2024 06:58
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Nope, you drive something like that till a snapped timing chain lunches the valves, and it'll likely last 400k if you change the oil and replace that timing chain at 220k or whatever. I'm 45 with a low-mile Miata and looking to buy a '23 Prius as a 'practical' second car and I expect them to be the last vehicles I own for the rest of my life.
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Apr 30, 2024 07:46
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IIRC those are subject to an engine failure problem right now that is not timing chain related so you may not get a chance to worry about the timing chain.
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Apr 30, 2024 07:59
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PainterofCrap posted:Spend the money, and suffer through it once. No powered windows, no problems 
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Apr 30, 2024 08:51
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I have a 2023 Civic Si and the clutch pedal has been acting strange. For the first 2-3 presses first thing in the morning it feels creaky like it needs to be lubricated. After that it is completely smooth. The car only has 9,000 miles on it. I try to take care of the transmission/clutch, but I'd hate to think I've ruined them already. Could it really just be a lubrication issue? I checked the brake/clutch fluid and it's full. 
Travic fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 30, 2024 14:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Spend the money, and suffer through it once.  Should probably learn this now since it’s already later.If the drive gear is the problem, how come it sounds normal for the first half of coming up, then seems to encounter resistance or something and either trips the pressure sensor or slows down and does more work to get over it? Wouldn’t it fail in the same manner across the entire action? Maybe I’ll watch some videos. Edit: gently caress it might as well just replace the thing, it looked kinda old anyway. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Apr 30, 2024 |
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Apr 30, 2024 14:21
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Pollyanna posted:
It seems to be a Honda design issue: the lubrication has failed & the drive is pushing beyond the rated capacity of the drive gear. One of the arms may be flexing, & possibly has bent (this is what happens on the cheap ones) and then the tractor gear starts stripping. The lugging you see could be either/or/both. If the window seems to suddenly change speed at some point during raising: that's arm flex - it resists, then lets go.
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Apr 30, 2024 15:26
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Then I’m gonna go ahead and just replace the entire thing as shown in that video I linked above, motor and all. Better safe than sorry I guess. If quality is so important, any recommended brands?
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Apr 30, 2024 16:28
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Pollyanna posted:Then I’m gonna go ahead and just replace the entire thing as shown in that video I linked above, motor and all. Better safe than sorry I guess. I would buy the genuine Honda part probably aftermarket is spotty, and this one worked for 13 years so you'll probably be fine
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Apr 30, 2024 16:30
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Eh, more like ~10 years.
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Apr 30, 2024 16:33
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Travic posted:I have a 2023 Civic Si and the clutch pedal has been acting strange. For the first 2-3 presses first thing in the morning it feels creaky like it needs to be lubricated. After that it is completely smooth. The car only has 9,000 miles on it. I try to take care of the transmission/clutch, but I'd hate to think I've ruined them already. Could it really just be a lubrication issue? I checked the brake/clutch fluid and it's full. It could actually be lubrication on the pedal. Is the creakiness something that feels like it’s in the hydraulic system?
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Apr 30, 2024 17:13
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I'd also recommend getting an OEM regulator. My experience with third party window regulators has been negative, the ones I've tried have not lasted very long.
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Apr 30, 2024 18:22
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Pollyanna posted:Eh, more like ~10 years. your car is 13 years old
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Apr 30, 2024 18:51
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yeah but i first noticed the problem a few years ago and only just now started taking it seriously
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Apr 30, 2024 19:09
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Dr. Lunchables posted:It could actually be lubrication on the pedal. Is the creakiness something that feels like it’s in the hydraulic system? Very much so. It feels like a sticky piston. I'd just heard these symptoms may also indicate deeper, more worrying problems so I'm being thorough.
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Apr 30, 2024 19:16
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Pollyanna posted:yeah but i first noticed the problem a few years ago and only just now started taking it seriously Regardless, just get the Honda one if you want to keep the car. It lasted for ten years, an AM replacement is not likely to do better. But you've been talking about getting a new car, so if you do decide to go that route, you should just slap in whatever cheap poo poo aftermarket junk you can find.
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Apr 30, 2024 19:22
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No you should buy the Honda stuff especially then and not foist hidden crap on to the next owner.
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Apr 30, 2024 20:34
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throwing cheaper aftermarket fixes at 10+ year old cars before selling them is a time honored tradition
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Apr 30, 2024 20:40
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Travic posted:Very much so. It feels like a sticky piston. I'd just heard these symptoms may also indicate deeper, more worrying problems so I'm being thorough. Whatever it is, it's not something you caused and you've got a warranty. Time to head to the dealer.
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Apr 30, 2024 20:42
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Got a 1990 Dodge D150 The speedometer and fuel gauge are non-functional. How do I even start on figuring out what's wrong?
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May 1, 2024 03:20
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spacetoaster posted:Got a 1990 Dodge D150 That's a mechanical speedo gauge, right? Check the VSS mounted on the transmission. There are other things it could be like a broken speedo cable going from that sensor to the gauge. As for the fuel gauge, that's probably the fuel tank sending unit mounted inside the fuel tank. It's a pain to get to on most American cars. It usually involves dropping the fuel tank, which in turn means waiting until the tank is almost empty, siphoning into a fuel jug, etc. Trucks have the option of removing the bed to get to the tank. Or you could just be a total redneck and cut a hole in the bed. Edit: and be careful before you start poking around the fuel system. Pull the negative battery cable first, no smoking, use a brass punch to open the tank seal, etc. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:50 on May 1, 2024 |
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May 1, 2024 03:29
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spacetoaster posted:Got a 1990 Dodge D150 Speedo: Make sure it’s connected at both ends: to the speedo head & transmission. If so, and nothing obvious is found - Get a friend to sit in the driver’s seat & watch the speedo. Unscrew the cable from the transmission & spin the end, either by hand or with a drill, and see if the needle moves. If not: probably the cable. Pull the cable wire out of the jacket from the transmission end & visually check it. The cable should come out & be able to be reinserted without more than a little resistance. Now would be a good time to lube it. If so: replace the drive gear (make sure to get the same one based on the number stamped into the old gear) If all else is good: may be the speedo head, and it will probably have to be removed for closer inspection/disassembly. Fuel gauge: should be getting 12v on one side of the gauge; the other (ground) wire goes to a rheostat/resistor in the tank float. A full tank should be the most voltage pushed to ground. As the float in the tank drops, it pushes more resistance, making the gauge needle move towards E. Use a voltmeter or test light to be sure the gauge is getting 12v on one leg. If it is, then you need to ground the wire from the tank & see if the needle moves. If it doesn’t, it may be broken somewhere. If it does, you need a new float switch
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May 1, 2024 04:18
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Thanks guys.
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May 1, 2024 13:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Whatever it is, it's not something you caused and you've got a warranty. Time to head to the dealer. That was may concern. I was worried I'd done something and damaged the clutch or release bearing. It did it again this morning. Nothing while the car was off. Once I started reversing out of my driveway it got creaky. And for the shift into first. After that it was fine.
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May 1, 2024 13:37
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How accurate are the Check Engine Light tools at O'Reilly's/Autozone stores? I know it's not a full test and gives a base idea (and I'll have to pay for a full diagnostic at my mechanic) but the light is not flashing on my dash, and the dude at OReilly's said it was something with a gas tank valve that was leaking, which is annoying as I literally got a new gas tank a few months ago since mine had cracked and I was leaking gas. I just want to make sure I'm fine driving to work for a day or two. I had a battery check done at an Autozone, they told me the battery was fine, but when my work van kept needing a jump, the mechanic showed me how the battery was inches from death, and that those tests at the parts places are poo poo.
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May 1, 2024 14:36
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Cowslips Warren posted:How accurate are the Check Engine Light tools at O'Reilly's/Autozone stores? I know it's not a full test and gives a base idea (and I'll have to pay for a full diagnostic at my mechanic) but the light is not flashing on my dash, and the dude at OReilly's said it was something with a gas tank valve that was leaking, which is annoying as I literally got a new gas tank a few months ago since mine had cracked and I was leaking gas. I can't speak to the tools at those shops since it's not in my country but you should buy a bluetooth OBD2 reader and get torque on your phone and you can see all the codes very easily, reset them, look at data from sensors, etc. Sounds to me like something wasn't hooked up fully with the new tank, related to the EVAP where gas fumes are dealt with in some way. Definitely safe to drive to work but it needs taking back to the shop so they can connect whatever breather or something back to the tank.
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May 1, 2024 15:03
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VelociBacon posted:I can't speak to the tools at those shops since it's not in my country but you should buy a bluetooth OBD2 reader and get torque on your phone and you can see all the codes very easily, reset them, look at data from sensors, etc. Sounds to me like something wasn't hooked up fully with the new tank, related to the EVAP where gas fumes are dealt with in some way. Definitely safe to drive to work but it needs taking back to the shop so they can connect whatever breather or something back to the tank. shouldn't the light have popped on closer to when I got the new gas tank installed and not a few months later?
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May 1, 2024 15:35
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Cowslips Warren posted:shouldn't the light have popped on closer to when I got the new gas tank installed and not a few months later? it's possible that the new gas tank was fine for a little while and then broke. not super uncommon for EVAP / filler neck / breather valve / whatever issues.
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May 1, 2024 15:38
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:it's possible that the new gas tank was fine for a little while and then broke. not super uncommon for EVAP / filler neck / breather valve / whatever issues. ugh. I don't know if it'd be under warranty still or not, but man it seems to be a great case for hubris whenever you think things are going good and that little light pops on.
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May 1, 2024 15:56
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Cowslips Warren posted:How accurate are the Check Engine Light tools at O'Reilly's/Autozone stores? I know it's not a full test and gives a base idea (and I'll have to pay for a full diagnostic at my mechanic) but the light is not flashing on my dash, and the dude at OReilly's said it was something with a gas tank valve that was leaking, which is annoying as I literally got a new gas tank a few months ago since mine had cracked and I was leaking gas. From my perspective as an engineer and not a mechanic, the fact that you have a gas-tank-related OBD shortly after having work done on your gas tank is strong evidence that the OBD flag is correct. When we look at individual warranty claim cases, which we do in some cases but not very often, one of the first things we always look at is service history. Just a fun tidbit, the reasons for looking at individual warranty claims have been anywhere from "Well this was an extremely odd failure," "We've had several occurrences of this issue lately," to "The VP's neighbor's car had to get taken to the shop." In addition to the possibility that something wasn't done correctly and it loosened over time, it could also be that the OBD checks take time to complete and it was only recently able to record enough abnormalities to set the flag. Work performed -> light -> who hosed up the work that was performed totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 1, 2024 |
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May 1, 2024 15:58
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Cowslips Warren posted:ugh. I don't know if it'd be under warranty still or not, but man it seems to be a great case for hubris whenever you think things are going good and that little light pops on. If your gas tank cap isn't tight or is leaking, it can cause those sorts of codes too. Check to make sure it's tight, they're also cheap and probably didn't get changed when you got your new tank.
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May 1, 2024 17:27
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I second what everyone else is saying but specifically totalnewbie. Another evap related code so soon after having fuel tank work done is a sign that it may be related, a very strong one in fact. Some of the evap codes will only come on up to 3 drive cycles after the problem was first flagged, and the evap monitor code that sets them sometimes only runs when the tank is at a certain fill level range, that's manufacturer model and year dependent. If it was my car I'd be bringing it back to them to see if they left a vacuum hose off or a hose clamp loose or something. Another related anecdote, I was literally just at the parts store to pick up a starter for a customers wood chipper (did you know that an asplundhe wood chipper from the 00s uses a Ford 300/4.9L with a Ford FE manual transmission bellhousing from the 60s and a 92-96 4.9L AUTOMATIC starter? I didn't) and the parts counter dope was trying to tell some lady with a 2012 Nissan Juke that her P0744 TCC circuit intermittent fault code meant that she needed a new torque converter. The people behind the counter at parts stores and their silly little code reader may be anywhere from well meaning but completely uninformed all the way up to knowledgeable but maliciously trying to sell more poo poo than a customer needs, but the one common outcome is they're pissing in the dark and I don't listen to them.
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May 1, 2024 20:15
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I just got this message from my cousin who is a car guy. He got it sent from a friend. I tried to figure it out. Failed. "This is a computer doing...something in the headliner of my friend's Volkswagen"  It seems to be a magnetic sensor but my Googling is turning up a bunch of who the gently caress knows. Any ideas? Desert Bus fucked around with this message at 18:59 on May 2, 2024 |
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May 2, 2024 18:56
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Compass module.
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May 2, 2024 19:01
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Powershift posted:Compass module. Thank you!
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May 2, 2024 19:02
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