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Did you adjust the closers? They have little screws on the tip.
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May 20, 2024 01:55
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Yeah. I messed with their distance from the hinge and seems to be a little bit better. I kind of hate the door anyway and can see changing it being a brainworm i fully grow next year. It's a full view and we somehow got to the point where we never swap the glass out for the screen anymore. I put a full view door in for my Mom last October and it has a hidden screen and I love that flexibility so much more.
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May 20, 2024 02:23
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Two questions today about some outside work, probably really basic jobs but I trust this thread more than Google to give me the best response; Firstly, on the side of my house, between the brick and pavement, I have a lot of weeds growing. Easy enough to remove, but what's the best way to stop it happening again? What kind of filler/material should I use in the gap?  Secondly, I have this wall in my back garden that's gotten filthy. I tried power washing it the other weekend but all that did was flake the paint off (happy with this as a starting point, but just didn't want to make that much of a mess there and then). Ideally I'd like to clean this, and then smooth it out, and paint is a fresh white color. I'm guessing power wash-scim coat-paint is the best course of action there? Any particular material recommended for quickly smoothing an outside wall? It's exposed to the sun a lot if that makes a difference.  Thanks!
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May 20, 2024 12:53
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PriorMarcus posted:Firstly, on the side of my house, between the brick and pavement, I have a lot of weeds growing. Easy enough to remove, but what's the best way to stop it happening again? What kind of filler/material should I use in the gap? You can spray weed killer or just try to tear them out, but good luck stopping new weeds from taking up residency. Weeds will grow in the dirt that accumulates on top of anything. You don't stop them by putting new layers down, not permanently anyway.
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May 20, 2024 13:02
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If there's a thread on here specifically about hanging stuff on your wall, please direct me to it. For the record, I am renting this apartment, but am also trying to limit how much I'm eating into my deposit. So, I'm hanging frames on my wall with command strips. I decided I didn't like where one of them was and it peeled the paint off when I removed it. I've since found that I removed it the wrong way and that it might not have happened if I had followed the instructions. Well, good to know for the next one, though I'm not in a hurry to test the others. For now, I've got more to hang up and a couple of questions to answer. First, should I try to repair this hole now, and what's the right way to do it in terms of preparing the area, matching paint, etc. Or, just take the hit to my deposit because I'm likely to gently caress this up further Also, how should I hang up the rest of my framed pictures? Maybe if I remove command strips the right way this won't happen again, or maybe the paint on these walls is just too thin to attempt it. Any other suggestions for hanging, other than drilling and installing screws? 
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May 20, 2024 14:49
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The wall wasn't prepped properly before it was painted so that last layer isn't bonded properly. There's nothing you can do to fix this, just be careful with it. Touch up what you can on your way out. Some areas may be more pooly bonded than others - just depends on what was on the wall where that they didn't properly clean before painting.
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May 20, 2024 14:56
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Also, how should I hang up the rest of my framed pictures? Maybe if I remove command strips the right way this won't happen again, or maybe the paint on these walls is just too thin to attempt it. Any other suggestions for hanging, other than drilling and installing screws? I've honestly just used picture hangers. Basically a hook held up with a small nail. Never had anyone say anything about it after I moved out. poo poo, one place I hung like two dozen picture frames on one wall and got my full deposit. If I made a big hole, I would patch it up and not bother painting, figuring they were going to repaint anyway. Obviously depends on the landlord.
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May 20, 2024 15:02
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I've got a Zippo butane jet lighter insert that has worked perfectly for months, but recently has gone a bit wonky wrt starting on the first try or even holding the flame. I've also just thrown out an empty canister of butane and started a new one from another brand. My question is, is there such a thing as lovely quality butane?
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May 20, 2024 15:06
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Flipperwaldt posted:I've got a Zippo butane jet lighter insert that has worked perfectly for months, but recently has gone a bit wonky wrt starting on the first try or even holding the flame. I've also just thrown out an empty canister of butane and started a new one from another brand. My question is, is there such a thing as lovely quality butane? Had this happen to one of mine as well and am curious. I was using the same butane though so I doubt its a lovely can, but it would be good to know if the insert is trashed after like less than a year of use.
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May 20, 2024 15:28
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Motronic posted:The wall wasn't prepped properly before it was painted so that last layer isn't bonded properly. There's nothing you can do to fix this, just be careful with it. Touch up what you can on your way out. Some areas may be more pooly bonded than others - just depends on what was on the wall where that they didn't properly clean before painting. Yeah, I think I put it over where it had been already painted over. Probably why the paint so easily came right off. Uthor posted:I've honestly just used picture hangers. Basically a hook held up with a small nail. Never had anyone say anything about it after I moved out. poo poo, one place I hung like two dozen picture frames on one wall and got my full deposit. How would you patch it up?
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May 20, 2024 15:35
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:How would you patch it up? For small holes, just fill it with this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-DryDex-16-oz-Dry-Time-Indicator-Spackling-Paste-12348/100634326 Use just a tiny bit, make sure to smooth it out as thin as possible. You can always add more if you need to, it's a pain sanding it away if you use too much. If I'm posting links, I get picture hanging kits like this. Use the smallest hook possible, they're pretty strong. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Picture-Hanging-Kit-217-Piece-80011/301993193 Uthor fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 20, 2024 |
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May 20, 2024 15:41
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That Works posted:Had this happen to one of mine as well and am curious. Still want to know whether I should look for branded canisters of gas or what.
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May 20, 2024 16:01
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BUTANE IS A BASTARD GAS!!
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May 20, 2024 16:48
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PriorMarcus posted:Firstly, on the side of my house, between the brick and pavement, I have a lot of weeds growing. Easy enough to remove, but what's the best way to stop it happening again? What kind of filler/material should I use in the gap? As stated weeds will grown in any accumulated dirt pile, but one of my projects has been to use Cement Filler like this for my driveway/front walk: https://www.amazon.com/DAPConcrete-...d_source=1&th=1 Pull all the weeds, clean out as much loose dirt out of the crack as you can and then follow package directions. There's a few things I would point out. My driveway is cement, and yours looks like asphalt to me. So the base grey that this cures into looks OK in my situation, but would stand out pretty clearly against your black. If it is asphalt, you might be better served by something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluestar-Fle...b8&gad_source=1 While the first product is silicone, the second one is just straight black liquid latex, both of which should hold up to heat, cold and water. Both of these products are generally only applicable to gaps of up to 1". It looks like they would work on the driveway on the right side of your picture, but the left side gap looks like it gets a bit wider. Second, in my experience, the cracks go deeper than you might expect, so it will potentially sink down, settle, and not be at ground level. You might get in a short loop of filling the crack, letting it settle, cure, repeat. So you might end up using more than you expect for a "tiny" crack.
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May 20, 2024 20:45
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Uthor posted:For small holes, just fill it with this. Yep, this and whatever paint you can get that matches it. You might ask the management if they have a color code. If not it's probably landlord grey, which is whatever the cheapest paint your local hardware store sells. Check your local tenant rights laws - if you've been there X years they might be required to repaint after you leave anyway. In which case, the exact paint match shouldn't matter. Definitely use these instead. A small nail hole is going to be way easier to "fix" versus peeling chunks off your terribly painted wall.
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May 21, 2024 00:36
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Mice made a nest in the insulation in the oven at my in-laws vacation home and it smells awful whenever we cook. I think I can clean it out and replace the insulation, but I don't know how much I need Has anyone ever replaced oven insulation?
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May 21, 2024 01:04
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This happened to me and I just replaced the whole goddamned oven. I couldn't get the smell of baking mouse turds and urine out of the stove.
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May 21, 2024 05:37
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My sister had this problem. I’m afraid that you’re going to have to nuke it from orbit. I mean, if it’s a Viking, you can go full nutso and take it completely apart and clean it, replace what’s nested & infested, but there is also the very real question of whether or not you can get the parts. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:13 on May 22, 2024 |
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May 21, 2024 14:19
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FogHelmut posted:Mice made a nest in the insulation in the oven at my in-laws vacation home and it smells awful whenever we cook. I think I can clean it out and replace the insulation, but I don't know how much I need Here's the thing. Imagine that you can find the correct replacement parts/insulation. Let's also imagine that you are able to effectively and accurately replace all the insulation (though I'm guessing you've never actually done this before). Assume everything has gone correctly - Do you want to eat food cooked in an over that has been haunted by mouse turds? Yes, logically, replacing all the mouse nested insulation should be possible. And if you are taking apart the oven to get to all the insulation, you should be able to find and remove any and all evidence of mice, up to and including little mouse corpses. And further, if there was some trace amount of "biological matter" left after the job was done, getting the oven up above 400 should kill most pathogens. But psychologically? That's tarnished ground no matter how you slice it. Save up some money, get a new oven and some better mouse traps.
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May 21, 2024 15:31
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Hey everyone. I have spent the last few weeks solving a problem which I thought was the hard part. I am doing my own landscape lighting and have set up 4 zones off a single transformer using shelly switches. I got it all done, it's working, ready to install! And now I'm wondering... how do I attach this plastic box to the metal support of the transformer in a way that keeps the plastic box high off the ground? Is there a cheap something I can clamp onto the metal that will allow me to screw through into the plastic with no risk of it sliding down and touching the ground? I was not expecting this part to be the one I couldn't figure out but I'm drawing a blank. The metal is pretty thick and I don't have the kind of drill that can punch a hole through it. Is there a way to do this without borrowing a tool to cut notches in it? 
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May 21, 2024 20:20
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Looks like you should be using EMT fittings through a knockout on each box and a short piece of EMT to join them. Then you can use self tapping screws (like teks screws) through the plastic box into the frame.
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May 21, 2024 20:30
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Motronic posted:Looks like you should be using EMT fittings through a knockout on each box and a short piece of EMT to join them. Then you can use self tapping screws (like teks screws) through the plastic box into the frame. Not sure I follow when you say each box - that's 3 photos of one box at different angles. it sits between the L shaped metal frame that holds the transformer up. If I have a regular old battery powered black and decker, can it get self tapping screws through metal that thick? it's 2mm stainless steel. I don't need to predrill?
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May 21, 2024 20:35
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cubicle gangster posted:Not sure I follow when you say each box - that's 3 photos of one box at different angles. it sits between the L shaped metal frame that holds the transformer up. The transformer is in a "rated enclosure" with knockouts. Any wiring between them needs to pass through the knockouts of each box in liquitite or EMT. cubicle gangster posted:If I have a regular old battery powered black and decker, can it get self tapping screws through metal that thick? it's 2mm stainless steel. I don't need to predrill? You can just as easily drill a hole through the frame and use far supreior nuts washers and bolts to do that job. All you need is a proper drill bit and the drill you already have. I'm not sure why you think you'd need something special for relatively thin metal like that. I'm going to guess it's because you've only used dull and/or wood bits on metal before. Get the right bits and it will work fine.
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May 21, 2024 20:48
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I have a pre-cast concrete tread that developed a growing crack (from left to right) and seems like it's rusting out from the inside. I'm guessing water is coming in on the top crack on the left, or possibly a crack hidden between the tread and the stringer. How do I save it / prolong its life? Concrete patch the cracks? Go over the cracks with concrete crack sealant? It has embedded bolts that are welded in, so even if I found a replacement tread it wouldn't be an easy swap. 
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May 21, 2024 21:06
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I don't think there's anything you can do that will make a difference. It's cracked because the rebar inside has expanded from rust (you can see the staining). It's nearing the end of its useful life.
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May 21, 2024 21:10
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Motronic posted:I'm going to guess it's because you've only used dull and/or wood bits on metal before. Get the right bits and it will work fine. Yeah, my drilling track record is bad. Every time I try and drill anything I somehow gently caress it up. See in our home half hung curtains and a hole in the drywall that needs patching, hooks that can't support weight without falling out etc. Never successfully drilled into metal before. Thanks for the help! I'll share the results of this when I get it all wired up, I'm super excited to get the yard lit up. 52 lights in total between the front and back.
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May 21, 2024 21:34
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Sharp cutting tools are like discovering magic if you're used to dull garbage
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May 21, 2024 22:00
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I'm not suggesting cubical buys these for their small project, but if you do any amount of metal drilling you should absolutely go spend $160 on them: https://www.astrotools.com/product/onyx-29pc-turbostep-hss-reduced-shank-mechanics-length-drill-bit-set/ They are legit magic.
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May 21, 2024 22:22
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They durable? I am sick of crap drill bits, or spending $25 on a bit that blunts out after I (ab)use it (joking aside the $25 bits are usually large-bore so limited use. )
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May 22, 2024 04:16
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If you're drilling through thick metal/using a large bit. Slow speed with mineral oil (3 in 1 works, too) will keep your bit sharp for lots of holes. And self tap screws are what I use when attaching those boxes. The self tapping AG panel screws with rubber grommets work great. Impact driver with nut driver. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 04:57 on May 22, 2024 |
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May 22, 2024 04:55
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PainterofCrap posted:They durable? I am sick of crap drill bits, or spending $25 on a bit that blunts out after I (ab)use it If you just go for finished sizer and reall beat the tar out of the step part you're gonna wear it out. But you can absolutely go slow with cutting fluid and keep them in nice shape. I've had my set for a while and even the most used sizes are still sharp.
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May 22, 2024 13:56
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Motronic posted:I'm not suggesting cubical buys these for their small project, but if you do any amount of metal drilling you should absolutely go spend $160 on them: https://www.astrotools.com/product/onyx-29pc-turbostep-hss-reduced-shank-mechanics-length-drill-bit-set/ They are legit magic. Dude! That's a great idea. I tend to use regular step bits to start the hole (for exactly the reasons the mention on that listing - bit walk and pilot holes,) then use an actual sized bit for the final hole. Those pretty much just combine that into one tool. Nice!
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May 23, 2024 21:38
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My friend bought a house without getting it inspected or really thinking hard about some of the design choices, and neither did whoever did the renovations to this house! I've solved a lot of problems with this house as I've been his roommate forever, and I've found a problem I have no idea how to solve safely. We have a chandelier in the entrance way, and I assume it used to be at a reasonable height at one point where one could simply use a ladder and replace the bulbs, but because whoever designed the renovations didn't think about it at all. The chandelier is currently hanging over a stairwell and is, at a glance 18 feet from the ground. A ladder is a no go, as it would not fit locked out on the tiny entrance way below it because how they have the stairs situated, further complicating things is that it's an upward facing fixture and is maybe threeish foot from the closest wall. Ideas goons?
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May 24, 2024 05:35
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Scaffolding to get up there And install the cheapest electric chandelier hoist off Amazon (or alibaba, whatever) https://a.co/d/bQTkCPM
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May 24, 2024 07:52
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Got a bit of an update! Had a long day working from 9am to 9pm on my lighting. https://imgur.com/a/RYwKW4l Bought a new drill bit, and yes, what a world of difference. Attached a bracket to the transformer frame, screwed the junction box into it, sealed it all up with liquid silicone. Then I re-wired up the 4 zones of lighting using Shelly 1 plus mini's (awesome little things), and got cable ran and connected for 6 of the 9 capstone lights, a single upper spotlight, a single mid level floodlight, and 2 front lights - a path, and planter light. Thats 10 down, and 42 to go... But the hard part is over at least. Appreciate the pointers I got! I know I was recommended to use appropriate connectors for the box to transformer, but I didnt have the space without the box ending up on the ground and I have doused every opening/screw hole in liquid silicone instead, it's all watertight. cubicle gangster fucked around with this message at 08:18 on May 26, 2024 |
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May 26, 2024 07:47
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