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We're thinking at getting one of those inexpensive 10' pools to throw up for a couple months each summer for the kids to splash around in. Problem is, the only part of my lawn that's even approaching level is near the street. Which is noisy. I've got a 5' wood fence up, and saplings planted behind it, which should eventually do some work cutting down on the noise, but we're several years away from that. So for the time being, I've effectively only got a bare single-board-thickness fence between my lawn and the busy road. The location in question is probably 60-80ft from the road. I see people tossing around the term mass loaded vinyl, which is apparently a sheet of vinyl that's been impregnated with some special sand etc to effectively cut down on noise level. It's not the cheapest stuff though. I've also seen other people mention using roofing rolls of various sorts. Anyone have experience with trying to cut down road noise? What worked, didn't work, how high you built, etc?
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May 22, 2024 20:21
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| # ? May 27, 2024 00:05 |
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I got a gas line question. I want to be able to center my oven under the vent hood. This gas line was installed when there was a bank of cabinets there with a stovetop. Now it's blocking the oven from getting in the right position.  After some research I thought I'd get a gas outlet box and install it in the wall behind the oven: https://www.lowes.com/pd/PRO-FLEX-Quarter-Turn-Ball-Valve-Mip-Gas-Outlet-Box/1001235038 It seemed simple to just move the supply pipe and run it straight up inside the wall. However, the situation down in the laundry room isn't ideal. It's open ceiling, which is great. But the green wall in the kitchen sits on top of a big double beam. So it's not just a matter of drilling through a subfloor and a 2x4 floor plate. You can see it here:  Measuring from the edge of the pipe it looks like drilling up just next to the beam would get me a hole that runs in the surface of the green wall. There are some angled holes drilled in the beam for electrical wires. It doesn't feel right to drill an angled 1 inch hole (or whatever) hole then run a gas pipe through the beam. But that would get me into the wall cavity. How can I best get the gas pipe out of the way and up to code? Here's what I've thought of: 1. Drill an angled hole through the beam and into the wall. Run a pipe through the angled hole. Then up to a gas outlet box 2. Go Straight up through the floor. Terminate it low enough that the oven can sit over it. Run a flexy line to the oven 3. Go straight up through the floor. Terminate it low enough that the oven can sit over it. Run it into the wall then to a gas outlet box I don't know if any of these are legal or safe. At the moment I'm not planning on doing this myself. I'm going to talk to a plumber about it. I wanted to get the thread's advice so I have some knowledge going into that conversation. IF #2 is correct then I might DIY it. But my wife would prefer I didn't.
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May 23, 2024 03:29
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Hard to get oriented from the basement photo. Which direction does the gas line need to go?
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May 23, 2024 04:12
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One joist bay over to the left and like 1.5 inches into the double uh 2x12? beam that's behind it in that shot. Positioning it left to right is easy. Longer pipe, maybe change the elbow angle a bit. Getting it running inside the wall seems hard. Like I said coming through the wall from below involves a hole in the beam. Coming up straight through the floor then turning and entering the wall is possible because there's about 5 inches of clearance under the oven. [
Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 23, 2024 |
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May 23, 2024 04:22
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I’m sure it’s against code to drill up through a structural beam which is why they ran the pipe below and through the floor. Your best bet would probably be running it to the other side of the stove. You could probably do that easily but YMMV depending on comfortable you feel with working on gas lines.
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May 23, 2024 04:50
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Hmm. Maybe instead of moving it left I'll move it to the right. That would let me get the oven in the correct spot. I'm making the cabinet to the right of the stove myself so I can fit it around the gas pipe/leave an access door for the shutoff.
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May 23, 2024 05:16
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Can you run a flex line there? Might be able to find a different routing option that way.
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May 23, 2024 05:38
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What if you move the oven forward instead and build a box shelf behind it to cover the gas outlet and give yourself a ledge to put spices and tools on
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May 23, 2024 06:30
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Option #2, if I'm reading you right, is absolutely the solution. Come up through the floor as close to the wall as you can in the joist bay to the left of the current one. Cap a few inches above the floor, add flex. Should fit nicely in the oven's rear recess.
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May 23, 2024 11:17
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Okay I should probably replace the caulking in one of my showers. What's the best goon-approved product? Mildew/mold resistance a huge plus, seems to be a bigger issue in that bathroom than I've ever seen, I'm constantly having to clean the shower despite using a timed bathroom fan that runs for 45 min after the shower is used (and during).
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May 23, 2024 11:22
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brugroffil posted:Me this morning: "man I don't feel like dragging the 12' ladder out of the shed to clean some gutters" ....you know what, this is a better way to go than a lot of the alternatives. Your father in law seems like a cool guy.
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May 23, 2024 13:13
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Vim Fuego posted:One joist bay over to the left and like 1.5 inches into the double uh 2x12? beam that's behind it in that shot. Positioning it left to right is easy. Longer pipe, maybe change the elbow angle a bit. Getting it running inside the wall seems hard. Like I said coming through the wall from below involves a hole in the beam. Coming up straight through the floor then turning and entering the wall is possible because there's about 5 inches of clearance under the oven. I have a really dumb question: Isn't there a recess in the back of the stove - usually the bottom half - that's deep enough to let you slide the stove over it?
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May 23, 2024 15:40
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Nope. The gas intake comes out of the bottom of the oven. So it looks like dropping the pipe low enough that the oven will clear it is the answer. Well that's the easy option!
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May 23, 2024 16:31
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Ohh, I was reading that picture as the pipe would be hitting the side of the oven if it was centered on the hood. Yeah, just shorten the pipe, ovens are designed for this.
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May 23, 2024 18:02
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devmd01 posted:Finally completed the landscaping for the patio remodel. We have just a few more details left and this project will be done, mostly waiting on Pella at this point to manufacture and ship the door we’re adding from the house directly into the screened in space. The money has totally been worth it, it’s a really nice place to hang out for a fire or just to read a book in the shade. What a beautiful and inviting yard! Good job. Enjoy the screen porch.
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May 23, 2024 21:35
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Screened porches own bones. Ours is our summertime living room (and WFH spot).
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May 24, 2024 19:02
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How do people get their porches screened in? Are those big box DIY kits worth it?
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May 24, 2024 22:56
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Table saw, brad nailer, screen material, 2x4s. My friend's dad made panels that went between the posts that he could take down for winter.
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May 25, 2024 01:04
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It also depends on how nice you want it to look. I watched my dad do it probably a dozen times as a kid with screen material and a staple gun, just fixing it to the posts that were already holding up the roof over the deck. His later, fancy, variation was to sandwich the screen material between whatever structural stuff he was staple gunning it to and some 1x2s to provide a bit more of a seal and a more finished look. Why yes that was right after a friend gave him an old nail gun, why do you ask?
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May 25, 2024 14:39
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I curse the day one of the previous home owners got a nail gun. There was no problem they thought couldn’t be solved with more nails. I think every time their workbenches felt loose they’d just go nuts with framing nails. I was taking the rickety things apart yesterday and some of the joints were more nail than wood. Very tedious removing the long rear end nails but I wanted to reuse as much wood as possible
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May 26, 2024 07:44
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When I got home the last two weekends I smelled mildew when I opened two of my exterior doors and noticed peeling paint on the interior of the frame on one of them. These are pre-hung steel insulated exterior doors with storm doors on the outside and I only open them when I want the airflow, otherwise they stay locked with the storm windows closed. I installed them a few years ago before I hired Champion (huge mistake) to replace my windows, soffit, fascia, flashing, wrap the house in tyvec, and siding. I've already had water damage around some of the windows where I had to rip open the walls and let it dry out and when I noticed the water on the floor I confirmed its not coming in through the attic. The worse of the two doors is on the first floor with a window right above it on the second floor, the peeling paint is at the top and sides of the door frame and where its not peeling you can see some discoloration on the door frame. The less musty smelling door is on the second floor and only has some discoloration near the bottom of the frame and on the top of the frame of the door below it. I'm guessing the reason the door below it does not have the musty smell is because it it the primary door of the house. Is there any way I could have hosed up enough hanging the doors and storm doors that would get water between the wall frame and door frame? I had no water ingress issues before I hired out all that exterior work.
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May 26, 2024 13:36
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Have a quick question here about adhesion as it relates to joint compound. I am patching some fallen paint / compound with new joint compound before painting. The TL:DR version is that when dudes put in new HVAC vents, they needed to make the holes bigger. They did so with a sawzall. In places where it has been painted a million times instead of the normal plaster, the top layer of paint / smoothing compound detached and started to peel away (The picture is after I popped off everything that has detached until it was wasn't coming away anymore):  When I am applying new compound, I was going over the edges with a wet sponge (this is level 1, when it semi-dried I was going to put a second coat on to smooth it all out) and I guess the sponge pulled harder than the old plaster and started pulling pieces off:  Is my compound too dry? I mixed it until it was basically like chocolate pudding so it would be easy to work with, but should I wet sponge the area first? Also basic old house info: - Built 1963 - The ceiling "appears" to be 1/4 in drywall + 1/4 plaster + smoothing compound + paint. (At least that's what it was in my bed room when I put my knee through the ceiling from the attic and had to do a patch job real fast). ptier fucked around with this message at 16:40 on May 26, 2024 |
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May 26, 2024 16:37
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If it's a really sensitive area where moisture is going to pull more poo poo off you can straight up sand it. As in, sanding block, not wet sanding with a sponge. Let it dry all the way and sand flush. It will make a motherfuck of a mess, dust everywhere. But I've done that before when the sponge was causing more problems than it solved.
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May 26, 2024 16:44
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Looks like rock lath to me. My condolences. I had to repair the ceiling in my living room that was also rock lath and you will likely need to keep peeling off the plaster layer that has separated until you get to a point where it's still well adhered. That or score the plaster farther out from that damaged area and break it off up to that point, then fill it all back in. It helps if you moisten the gypsum layer a little before adding your fresh joint compound. There will be a lot of sanding. I'm sorry.
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May 26, 2024 16:49
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Cyrano4747 posted:If it's a really sensitive area where moisture is going to pull more poo poo off you can straight up sand it. As in, sanding block, not wet sanding with a sponge. Let it dry all the way and sand flush. Sirotan posted:Looks like rock lath to me. My condolences. I had to repair the ceiling in my living room that was also rock lath and you will likely need to keep peeling off the plaster layer that has separated until you get to a point where it's still well adhered. That or score the plaster farther out from that damaged area and break it off up to that point, then fill it all back in. It helps if you moisten the gypsum layer a little before adding your fresh joint compound. There will be a lot of sanding. I'm sorry. Well, my fears are confirmed, I have done this in other areas in the house but none so dumb as the kitchen. I have dealt with this enough that I have a dewalt sander with vaccum attachment. I just now know it will get yet another work out!
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May 26, 2024 16:55
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Fishing for some Motronic southeastern PA wisdom here. My sister recently bought a row house in northeast Philly, Kensington or something. There are consistent water issues in the basement, some of which are sewer related and are already being dealt with. Some of them are definitely not sewer related, though. Today she got an alert from the basement moisture sensor and saw water coming in from what looks like an old cleanout. Her neighbor on that side was using a hose outside, and as soon as the water supply was shut off in the neighbor’s basement, the water stopped coming into my sister’s house. They also let my sister into their house to demonstrate that they had turned the water off and she saw buckets and such on their basement floor roughly opposite where the leak is on her side, so it seems probable that the neighbors already knew about this problem. Given that this problem seems to be originating on their side but is flooding water into a neighboring house’s basement, what options would my sister have to get this fixed? Assuming they’re not willing to foot the bill to have the problem fixed, does my sister have any recourse to compel action?
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May 26, 2024 23:23
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| # ? May 27, 2024 00:05 |
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Oh man, I wish I could help but I'm not city enough to know how rowhouse neighbor disputes go down. Sounds like there are no good solutions that don't start with the problemtic neighbor appologizing because they actually did not know they were causing a problem and then immediately correcting it because in the end now you're living next to someone who you had to compel to spend money. When you got suburban spite fence/parking in front of your neighbor's house poo poo going down I've got some wisdom.
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May 26, 2024 23:34
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