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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Colostomy Bag posted:

According to FSM, yep...



I saw this but “reverse removal procedure” doesn’t say much to me when that procedure is just to loosen it. Just doesn’t matter how much I tighten it?

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

No, tensioner only sits one way. You place torque on the end of it (looks like the usual 3/8 square" to slip belt on or off and release the tension. Done.

That bolt only holds the tensioner to the block.

Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 12, 2024

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Ahhh ok thanks. That is exactly what I was missing

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Yeah, if you look at the tensioner in the pic, you stick your half inch(? maybe 3/8") ratchet drive in the square hole and use that to tilt the tensioner so you can put the belt on.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

in a well actually posted:

A time machine to 2007

Maybe in your area but I see a fair number of varying condition beater prii as well as the occasional Nissan leaf in the 500 to 2300 dollar range on fbmp around me. It's weird, mostly 500ish, 1500ish, and just over 2k are the prices people use for non part out listings.

Trickortreat
Oct 31, 2020
My 2004 Toyota Camry car wouldn't start, so I jumped the battery and it started up just fine. I drove around the block a few times (like 10-15 minutes or so) and confirmed that the car was starting back up without any issue. Does this mean I can rule out an issue with the car alternator since I am assuming it was able to charge up the battery during the drive?

This morning, the battery is dead again. Are there any other diagnostics or due diligence I should do on my end before taking the battery in to get a replacement since it's still under warranty?

I'm hoping the issue is with the battery, but wanted to crowd source some knowledge beforehand.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

You may have a parasitic drain. Check that out before you buy a new battery or you'll kill the new one, too.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also, a cold start is slightly more difficult than a hot start, so if the battery was turning the engine over but just not quiiiite getting it started cold, and then it was able to do it hot, that doesn't necessarily mean the alternator is fine. But also driving slowly for 15 minutes will not significantly charge up the battery anyway, so even a small parasitic drain could drop it overnight back below where you want.

You can take your car to an autozone and get the battery tested for free.

You can test an alternator with a multimeter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q

This is a pretty good video, but I'll just add that if you start the car and you're not seeing the voltage jump up, before you conclude the alternator is bad, rev the engine up. The alternator doesn't actually start charging your car until it's spinning "fast enough" and that isn't always fast enough at idle. So you can go for a drive and get up to like 40mph or so, or you can put the car in neutral or park and rev the engine up. The output of the alternator should rise significantly as it goes up from idle to (gas, not deisel engines) like 1500-2000 RPMs or so. The exact speed depends on the ratios on the belt pulley, the exact alternator, probably other stuff so apologies that this is vague, just like... yeah, rev it up to a reasonable deal and if you aren't seeing the voltage climb by the time you're getting above 1k RPM, that suggests there's a problem.

The video above has some troubleshooting steps too, if you're open to doing that stuff, but it'd also be very reasonable to take it to a mechanic once you've established there's an alternator issue.

Scionix
Oct 17, 2009

hoog emm xDDD
asking here instead of the A/T thread because I don't need a detailed buyer's suggestion:

what would y'all pay for a manual, 96 c4 Corvette with 13k miles? Assuming no problems with internals/interior, mint paint

Scionix fucked around with this message at 01:54 on May 15, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Scionix posted:

asking here instead of the A/T thread because I don't need a detailed buyer's suggestion:

what would y'all pay for a manual, 96 c4 Corvette with 13k miles? Assuming no problems with internals/interior, mint paint

They seem to go in the $25-40k range on BAT with that mileage depending on condtion/options/package.

https://bringatrailer.com/chevrolet/c4-corvette/?exclude=peerless+batmobile+sledgehammer

e: considerably lower on cars and bids, and trending downwards.

https://carsandbids.com/search?csort=7&q=c4%20corvette

There seem to be a whole poo poo ton of low mileage C4 corvettes.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:29 on May 15, 2024

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


I use a boot/trunk liner in my car, it is attached via velcro - you get a fitting kit with adhesive velcro loop strips which go on various plastic parts inside the car, then the liner has the corresponding hook strips and attaches to those.

I just got a new (to me - approved used from dealership) car and I think that as part of the preparation process they've used a silicone polish on the interior plastic parts, meaning that some of the velcro strips will not stay stuck on. Some of them do, just on a different area of the same plastic part, leading me to think that it's a polish and the dealer just didn't cover everything with it.

What is the best way to remove this silicone based polish? I've tried isopropyl alcohol but it doesn't seem to have done very well.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Silicones in general are a real bastard to remove, you might try stronger IPA. If that doesn't cut it you'll have to switch to something like acetone but bear in mind that may well dissolve the things you're trying to clean it off of as well. Not very helpful.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Just a hunch but see if some WD-40 don't help... That stuff was the only thing which helped against butyl sealant....

It's also an extremely efficient hand cleaner.

Sir Sidney Poitier
Aug 14, 2006

My favourite actor


Having not used WD40 for cleaning before, will it leave any residue itself? I know isopropyl alcohol and acetone would just evaporate.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Oh yeah it will, probably wipe down afterwards with IPA or acetone if you want it clean.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

When I have the room I'm going to buy a C4 with the digital dashboard just because I spent so much time looking at it in Test Drive



Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Nothing was better than intros for Test Drive.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

I use a boot/trunk liner in my car, it is attached via velcro - you get a fitting kit with adhesive velcro loop strips which go on various plastic parts inside the car, then the liner has the corresponding hook strips and attaches to those.

I just got a new (to me - approved used from dealership) car and I think that as part of the preparation process they've used a silicone polish on the interior plastic parts, meaning that some of the velcro strips will not stay stuck on. Some of them do, just on a different area of the same plastic part, leading me to think that it's a polish and the dealer just didn't cover everything with it.

What is the best way to remove this silicone based polish? I've tried isopropyl alcohol but it doesn't seem to have done very well.

Try brake cleaner.

It *probably* won't melt anything, but I assume no liability if it does.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Don’t use acetone on plastic parts that you don’t know the chemical composition of. That means don’t use brake cleaner.

Naphtha will dissolve silicone and be broadly better for use when interacting with plastics.

If you’re working in a trunk while doing this, reconsider your project whole cloth. Solvents and vapors can absolutely kill you in situations like this, where you’re standing over the work area. If you’re producing heavy vapors you’re now trapping them in the trunk. I’d you’re producing light vapors they will rise right into your face. Remove the item from the trunk and bring it to a well ventilated area if possible before attempting this project. Otherwise I’d recommend a respirator classed for the solvents you decide to work with.

drhankmccoyphd
Jul 22, 2022
I just took delivery of my car about 2 weeks ago and I have a 10k mile 36mo lease w/ Ally bank. I got the 10k because I figured it was plenty of miles given my last car only had 24.7k miles over 40 months. Something like 7k-8k miles a year. My driving habits haven't changed all that much but I am freaking a bit that I drove about 600miles in the these first few weeks with a 100m roadtrip to see my parents . I could chalk it up to new car funsies, but I am a little worried about going over at lease end. I've read it is possible to bump your lease mileage w/ a higher payment but in calling Ally bank they said they can't do it. Should I be worried or just keep an eye out and try to get it waived at lease end w/ a new car? Anyone dealt with Ally before and been able to modify their lease ?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I wouldn’t worry about your lease end conditions until you’re at least a month into a 3 year term.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
edit: good advice immediately above as well

I'm curious about the lease through Ally since most leases that I am aware of are through captive finance. Evidently it's a thing, though.

Look at the terms of your lease. Since you are financing depreciation, there is usually a per-mile charge for mileage overages. If you turn in the car with 31,000 miles you pay 1,000 miles x cost per mile in addition to whatever dispositioning fees you owe.

Renegotiating your lease is a dumb idea because if you don't use the mileage you are paying for it anyway. The ideal state in a lease is to precisely hit the mileage allotment, and if you can't hit it on the nose, it's generally best to go over as the per-mile cost of overages is typically at only a mild premium to the per-mile cost of the lease itself.

Example: you have a 10/36 lease and your monthly is $300. You are paying 10,800 for 30k miles of depreciation, or 36 cents per mile. Your overage charge is 50 cents per mile. If you drive 35,000 miles you pay $10,800 for the first 30k miles, and $2,500 for the next 5k miles, for a total of $13,300. Cost per mile is 38 cents per mile. If you drive 25,000 miles, you pay $10,800 for the 25,000 miles, which gives you a cost per mile of 43 cents.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

bird with big dick posted:

When I have the room I'm going to buy a C4 with the digital dashboard just because I spent so much time looking at it in Test Drive





Oh wow I didn't realize the C4 would do ∂8° KM/H MPH while redlining at 8800 RPM. You should upshift for best economy.

Scionix
Oct 17, 2009

hoog emm xDDD

Powershift posted:

They seem to go in the $25-40k range on BAT with that mileage depending on condtion/options/package.

https://bringatrailer.com/chevrolet/c4-corvette/?exclude=peerless+batmobile+sledgehammer

e: considerably lower on cars and bids, and trending downwards.

https://carsandbids.com/search?csort=7&q=c4%20corvette

There seem to be a whole poo poo ton of low mileage C4 corvettes.

thanks, gonna go look at the car this weekend. It's being sold through a third party so I have no idea what haggling the price is gonna be like. Seller is asking for 30k, trying to get something 20-25k.

It's a 'collector's edition's which doesn't really add anything but it's got the LT4 in it

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Any thoughts on self adjusting electric trailer brakes? Between my car hauler and my wife's horse trailer, adjusting brakes is never something I look forward to doing. The horse trailer needs new brakes anyway and for $600 on etrailer, seems worth it to me as long as they work.

Steve Yun
Aug 7, 2003
I'm a parasitic landlord that needs to get a job instead of stealing worker's money. Make sure to remind me when I post.
Soiled Meat
The door handles fell off my car and I found some OEM ones that come in black. I found the paint code for my car. Is there a good place to get accurate spray paints? The "Touch Up Express" ones on Amazon have bad reviews saying the color was way off

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
If you want them to actually look good, local auto body shop that is decent. No rattle can job is going to look right. It won't be too expensive.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Tried to bend out a dent in one of my car’s panels (didn’t work) and I went to screw it back in and uhhh



https://youtu.be/2eW75tW_i08?si=BOq67sjBCx51C8VG

https://youtu.be/GBVJvcD_dZM

:ohdear: How…bad is it? Does this need to go to the shop?

Cartridgeblowers
Jan 3, 2006

Super Mario Bros 3

My girlfriend bought a 2019 Toyota Tacoma. I sat in the passenger seat one time and there seemed to be an issue where the seat sensor malfunctioned - the seatbelt light and passenger air bag lights wouldn't turn off. I'm a bigger guy so we thought it might be my weight. She took it to a mechanic to get it fixed and they said the weight limit was a little below what my weight is.

We're not sure if I should try to sit in it again. Online sources for this are so vague - it could have been my weight that set off the sensor, but it also could have been a pothole or something. Should I just relegate myself to driving my own car? Put my fat rear end in the truck bed? Try it anyway?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Pollyanna posted:

Tried to bend out a dent in one of my car’s panels (didn’t work) and I went to screw it back in and uhhh



https://youtu.be/2eW75tW_i08?si=BOq67sjBCx51C8VG

https://youtu.be/GBVJvcD_dZM

:ohdear: How…bad is it? Does this need to go to the shop?

You could try plastic welding.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


That'd be real annoying without removing the wheel and I don't feel like doing that. (Assuming you mean melting the plastic together with a soldering iron.)

Maybe I'll just...superglue it back on. Or maybe one day I'll be the customer who states.

Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 18:11 on May 18, 2024

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Spray foam and zip ties solves everything.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Cartridgeblowers posted:

My girlfriend bought a 2019 Toyota Tacoma. I sat in the passenger seat one time and there seemed to be an issue where the seat sensor malfunctioned - the seatbelt light and passenger air bag lights wouldn't turn off. I'm a bigger guy so we thought it might be my weight. She took it to a mechanic to get it fixed and they said the weight limit was a little below what my weight is.

We're not sure if I should try to sit in it again. Online sources for this are so vague - it could have been my weight that set off the sensor, but it also could have been a pothole or something. Should I just relegate myself to driving my own car? Put my fat rear end in the truck bed? Try it anyway?

Did it think there wasn't a passenger? Usually the problem is a small weight making the vehicle think it needs a seatbelt / turning on the airbag.

I'd start by unbolting the passenger seat, tilting it back, and unplugging / replugging all the connections. Eyeball them for corrosion or damaged wires while you're doing that.

Mr. Apollo
Nov 8, 2000

Do car manufacturers still make printed brochures for their various models? I haven’t seen them at any dealerships I’ve been to recently so I assume they just point people to the website now or email them a PDF of some kind.

When my sister was in school, she worked part time at a dealership. They would regularly get emails from people from Europe and Japan asking for the brochures because they collected them. They would mail them like $20 in cash along with their address and ask them to send them one of each brochure they had.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Deteriorata posted:

Spray foam and zip ties solves everything.

JB Weld is the grand winner this time!

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Mr. Apollo posted:

Do car manufacturers still make printed brochures for their various models? I haven’t seen them at any dealerships I’ve been to recently so I assume they just point people to the website now or email them a PDF of some kind.

When my sister was in school, she worked part time at a dealership. They would regularly get emails from people from Europe and Japan asking for the brochures because they collected them. They would mail them like $20 in cash along with their address and ask them to send them one of each brochure they had.

They did through 2019, if it counts

CongoJack
Nov 5, 2009

Ask Why, Asshole

Dr. Lunchables posted:

They did through 2019, if it counts

Hyundai dealership had one for each different model when I was in one back in February

Mr. Apollo
Nov 8, 2000

Interesting, I was at a Honda dealer and Audi dealer recently. Neither of them had brochures out on display. Maybe you had to ask for one. I remember years ago they would have racks them on display right by the front door.

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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
i know there was a paper brochure for my car cause i got one out of the dealer's back room

https://www.mazdausa.com/siteassets/pdf/brochures/2020/mx-5/2020-mx-5-miata-brochure.pdf

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